Tanyun Logo

LocationHome » » News&FAQ » Chemical Study » WHAT DOES MUSK STAND FOR IN THE PERFUME WORLD?


It is best to ask perfumers this.

“The term 'musk' is an abstraction of complex fragrance impressions of natural musk tinctures that are especially noticeable in the dry-down, when the more volatile parts have evaporated. It refers to the warm, sensual, sweet-powdery tonality of the dry-down. ” (Scent and Chemistry: The Molecular World of Perfumes by Gunther Ohloff, Wilhelm Pickenhagen, Philip Kraft)

It is that nice, warm, sensual, sweet, slightly powdery scent that remains when the animal part of Tonquin musk is gone; a bit like the warm and still moist scent of a baby's head, such a delicate and soft "half-scent, half-feeling" experience. .

Today, not all young perfumers get the chance to smell real, natural musk, any more than perfume users do, so most people's concept of musk is based on biological chemistry and reference points of pre-existing perfumes; "Musky" stands for "soft, warm, neutral, slightly body-like."

15-pentadecanolide (2, Thibetolide®, Exaltolide®) is probably the traded musk with the fewest bee notes, so we use it as a reference for the scent of musk (Scent and Chemistry: The Molecular World of Perfumes by Gunther Ohloff, Wilhelm Pickenhagen , Philip Kraft.) Frederic Malle's Musc Ravageur is an example of a very good rendering of musk.

In a perfume composition, musk acts as the balancer and harmonizer that softens the rougher edges. Musk makes a fragrance formula cleaner and gives the composition volume, vibrancy and warmth. We probably can't find any modern perfume without some musk. Marketing tests show that buyers prefer perfumes with a high content of synthetic musk (usually 10-20%, sometimes even more), so musk accords are a big part of a perfume.

Synthetic musk actually appeared in the sky by accident in the 19th century. It was a discovery by Albert Baur, who was researching a powerful and safe explosive substance, such as trinitrotoluene (TNT) in 1888, and obtained a substance strongly scented with musk. These kinds of successes are rare. "Musk Baur" in the form of a 10% resolution at a price of $ 500 per kg (half the price of the natural Tonquin musk) was a major competitor in the musk world. London securities dealers, however, assured the public the opposite, preaching that synthetic musk would not even be suitable for soap and so Parisian perfumers started working again with Tonquin musk, bought in Shanghai ...

The Nitromusk family was further expanded by Albert Baur with Musk Ambrette, Musk Ketone and Musk Xylene between 1894 and 1898, as well as by Givaudan, who came out with Musk Tibetene, Musk Alpha and Moskene. All of these together formed the first generation of synthetic musks, and the most important in the world of perfumery until the 1950s.

Musk Ketone, used in Chanel №5 among others, was the standard musk scent, as it came very close to the original Tonquin musk.

Nitromusks were banned because of their neuro and photo-toxicity, the high reactivity that led to color change in perfumes, and their poor biodegradability and accumulation in organisms. However, consumers loved the sweet powdery nitromusk scent, and some legendary scents were built on these synthetic fragrances, so scientists had to find a replacement for Nitromusks.

Recommended Article